The Little Black Fish Off to See the World

Luang Prabang: Kuang Xi Waterfall and an Early Songkran

2 April, 2009, 08:06 am in "Laos"

Lower waterfall

We finally went to the Kuang Xi waterfall. We had been walking the main drag hoping to see a tuk tuk with some people already in it since Martin and Beatrice had ended up driving up and down the street for an hour searching for more people. We eventually found one.

Tuk tuks waiting at the tuk tuk stop

I think some of the road we went on was the same as how we drove into town but then it had been so smoky we couldn't see anything. Now the air was clean from the large quantity of rain we'd had during the past couple days.

View of mountains from waterfall

The road wound through mountains and villages until we reached a parking lot full of tuk tuks. The waterfall area was a series of trails as well as a center where black sun bears which had been captured from smugglers or from illegal bear bile operations were kept. The bears had an enclosure with platforms, tires, and other bear play things. The bears lumbered about. They were small with a light fur marking under their necks.

Black sun bear at bear rescue center

Beyond the bears was another enclosed area for rescued tigers but a cursory glance didn't reveal any.

The first series of falls and pools were crowded. The falls made a low wall of water. The pools were sea green and people were splashing and swimming. We walked past towards the 2nd swimming area. The surroundings were peaceful in spite of the people. Tall trees rose overhead so we walked in an emerald shadow. Black butterflies drifted in and out of light spots. Beyond this level we passed a large Lao house which was almost just a skeletal wood frame and damaged woven bamboo walls. The path opened out to a large pool above which the waterfall dropped maybe 100 meters. About halfway up was a pool. we took a narrow steep path and waded in the water at the top to peer over the edge (there was a railing).

Upper waterfall

Then we went back down and swam at the 2nd level of the falls. The water was cold but not unbearable. Limestone made some collecting pools.

Pools for swimming

We were glad we'd made it to the waterfalls after all. Yes it was touristy but the spot was a cool damp relief from the heat. The falls were luscious and it made for an enjoyable afternoon. Back at the parking lot we got a snack of fried bananas served in a banana leaf, the ultimate disposable dish.

Back in the tuk tuk we headed back to town. The tuk tuk driver was more or less careful when driving except he showed no mercy to chickens. When a flock of chickens were crossing the road, he didn't even slow down or blast his horn. One pullet went flying, dead, off the road.

The one time he slowed was when we reached a bridge with a bunch of kids on either side. We saw they were holding pots. As we got closer we saw they were full of water. We had no time to react. Rowshan tried to shield his camera with his body. Then the driver stopped so the kids could hurl their containers of water and empty the contents entirely on us. Then he continued on the road. Rowshan called for him to stop. "Why did you stop back there?!" he demanded. "Happy New Year" was the driver's response. We were all drenched and the cold air blowing made us extremely uncomfortable. Rowshan held up his camera showing how water came out from the buttons and covered the zoom extension piece. The grip for the zoom now wouldn't grip.

"Your stopping may have damaged a $1000 camera," I said. The driver laughed. I simplified. "Camera-- VERY EXPENSIVE. Now may not work." He stopped laughing but said, "I stopped to roll up my window." We found this a bit absurd because if he wanted to roll up his window he should have stopped before he got to the kids.

"And Songkran (New Year) isn't for a week!" I added.

He said it (unofficially) started today.

In the evening, Rowshan went to a monastery to take night photos. When he returned he announced that he liked talking to the monks (or probably novices). They told him how they liked American music and gave him facts about the US. They also told him how some of the monasteries have a computer but theirs didn't. However, they were able to use computers at internet cafes for free. They said their head monk was strict and didn't want them watching TV.

Wat Sensookharam at night

Wat Pha Phuttabaht at night

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Luang Prabang: Morning Alms Giving Ceremony

1 April, 2009, 08:06 am in "Laos"

Monks at morning alms giving

Around 4 AM the monasteries wake up and beat the huge drums in the wat. I dozed off and woke up around 5:30. Since I was awake I decided to seen the Tak Bat or the Morning Alms Giving. We'd seen this from our balcony in Vang Vieng but here with the large numbers of wats and monasteries, it is very large. However, it has also become a tourist attraction. Signs around the town report the problems of tourists getting in the way and distracting monks and alms givers with obtrusive flash photography.

The tradition is a very beautiful one. We arrived early and I really wondered if it had completely become a tourist thing since there were lots of vendors on the streets carrying baskets of sticky rice, bananas and flower offerings. We declined their offers and instead walked up the street. The noodle shops had big kettles simmering on clay fire pots. Shop and hotel owners were busy sweeping the streets and sidewalks in front of their businesses. The sandwich vendor on the corner of our hotel street had wheeled his cart in place and set out his sign. We walked back and forth. The sky began to become lighter but the clouds still kept the light level low. We saw the orange robes of a group of monks down the street. They disappeared into a back street and emerged closer to where we were. They waited then went up to a woman kneeling holding a basket of rice. She gave them each a bit and they continued down the street. Up the street we saw a large procession of monks-- perhaps from the monastery of Xieng Thong and the other wats in that area. A man came out of his house carrying a large basket of rice and joined a small group kneeling on mats. Some had flowers and candles lit.

A procession of monks receiving alms

They knelt with baskets of food and the monks walked by opening their bowls and receiving the food offered. An older woman deftly took what looked like a roll or dumpling from a basket, held it to her forehead in a sign of respect and thanks, then quickly tossed one into each monk's bowl. I thought how beautiful a way to start the morning it was-- not just kneeling in prayer or meditation but helping someone by giving them food. Steam rose from one woman's rice basket as she scooped out portions of fluffy steamed rice. The monks quickly passed the group receiving the offerings. Next to the offering group was a withered man and 2 kids who held out empty bags. In turn, some of the monks would drop some of the food they received into their bags. I thought how nice it would be to distribute food to hungry people in the morning. Another group of monks went by accepting offerings of a group on the corner (perhaps some of the people trying to sell offerings to tourists). There was also a little girl begging. A monk dropped a banana leaf package into her basket. Her face lit up as she picked up the package clapping her hands and showing a woman (perhaps her mother). I hoped the monk saw her happiness at receiving this but maybe monks are supposed to be beyond this.

Morning alms offerings

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Luang Prabang: A Visit to The Other Side of the Mekong

31 March, 2009, 08:06 am in "Laos"

Wat Chomphet above the Mekong

There is a path along the other side of the Mekong. It is a small paved street between houses and noodle shops which leads to a series of wats. There was a big tour group in front of the first wat so we decided to visit it on the way back. Wat Chomphet was up a hill. We'd seen it from the Luang Prabang side. From a distance it looked like it had 2 Christmas trees in front of it.

The wat was fairly ruined. A sign said restoration had been funded by France in 2007. The sign, with a border of white paint, was the only thing that looked like it had any work done on it. The things that looked like Christmas trees were stupas. In the front there had once been ornate wood decoration but it had mostly fallen off. Inside the ceiling was red with gold stencils. There was an ornate platform with a Buddha and an urn filled with dry dusty flowers.

Stupas by Wat Chomphet

Buddha and ornate platform

We walked down and followed a path. It got narrower the farther we got from the village. The paved road had disappeared after the first wat. The tour groups also disappeared as we walked further. The path led through a forest and over a stone bridge to Wat Long Khoun. We walked past this wat and the path got smaller and led through more peaceful forest. We came upon another wat/monastery, Tam Sackkalin. The buildings were old and falling apart but there were monks robes and a towel hanging to dry. A monk was cooking something in a kettle and washing his alms bowl. It seemed like a place away from everywhere. Perhaps monks came there to meditate.

Wat Long Khoun across the Mekong from Luang Prabang

We followed a path beyond, and up a hill until we came to a statue of a Buddha mounted on a rock outcropping. There were also some plaques with inscriptions including one translated to English, "Not to do any evil. To cultivate good, To purify oneself. This is the advice of the Buddhas". I think the monuments are called Phophasad. There were some other statues and a Buddha foot print. Beyond were several stupas. Coming upon the monuments on this peaceful forested hill was a little bit like stumbling upon a secret magical place. The forest reminded me a little of New England with the layer of dried leaves, gray stone outcroppings, and deciduous trees. The statues were decidedly SE Asian. The sky was a warm gray with clouds providing relief from the sun. The meditative hill commanded a view of the Mekong. Sounds carried from across the river were almost ghost like.

Buddha shrine in the forest

Buddhas in the forest

As we left the hill the clouds darkened and we felt stray drops of rain. A wind picked up rattling the dried leaves. The dark clouds made the wats' white walls and gold trim seem brighter. Then, as we reached the village, the bowl of the sky cracked and rain gushed down. Children who were coming home from school began to run for home. We rushed to a noodle shop where we sat under the eves with hot bowls of pho watching the rain rush down, overflowing from the rain barrel and splashing into the sheltered area. Kids passed by with huge umbrellas. The girls had their school skirts hiked up revealing shorts.

Downpour in the village

Girl in the rain

The air became scented with water and leaves. Eventually the rain let up enough for us to get to the boat dock but it started up again over on the other side.

Boats on the Mekong

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